(Ulu Sepat – Gerik, Perak- 25th – 29th August 2011)
Its being a week since I came back and is still suffering with itch from sand flies bites. This is the
first time I have been to the jungle that is infested with such flies. Usually we find mosquitoes
and generally they are only around in the evening and once darkness falls, they will all disappear
but not sand flies, they will hang around. The more you scratch the bite marks, the more the itch
are.
My friends reminded me that we are still in the 7th month (ghost festival month) and indirectly
hinted that is unwise to go anywhere unusual. I thought it was rather inconsiderate of him to
impose his superstitious fear on me but then again he could be concerned for my well being in
his own way. I have always been doing things I need and want to do whenever and not really a
superstitious type even though I respected the so call special month. So what the heck, we got
to do what we gotta to do.
Once again, gear and equipment is brought out and this time we needed to borrow a tent from
my ex hiking buddy, Gan, as we have 5 persons going and I have a 4 man tent. Gan had a 2 man
Coleman tent that is just right so that we can split to 2 groups of 3 & 2 and we would have space
to turn in the tent. My team consists of my brother, Eng Pow, My son, Kishen & his varsity mate,
Frank and my golf buddy, Wun. We don’t need to do any shopping as my supplies of NZ army
ration are enough for all of us.
We left Melaka on Thursday, 25th August in the morning to Kampar to pick up Kishen & Frank
and was expected to reach Grik by late evening. Weather was bad and it practically rain the
whole way till Gerik, approx. 500km. The plan was to meet up on Friday @ 6am beside the Gerik
Police Station as the starting point. We checked into a hotel and distributed the food ration
between ourselves and went to look for a Chinese restaurant for dinner.
Morning call was set up at 5.30am and after some hurried breakfast at a nearby stall we headed
to the starting point and saw the rest of the team already assembled. We are joining the hike
that is organized by a company called Wild Junction and various groups have signed up and the
total number of 21 persons is going including 3 guilds. Chief Guild, Hari gave a morning briefing
and introduced to us the specialized guild for this particular trip, Poncho. Poncho briefed us
about the timing, difficulties and the danger to expect about this mountain. By 7am, 3 vans
came and we loaded our bags and headed to ward Temenggor Dam, an hour drive away. Upon
reaching the dam, while waiting for the boat we had an introduction session to know one
another better. I was the first to introduce myself and as I finished a guy at the back shouted out;
“I know your artist brother” In the middle of nowhere a stranger suddenly called out and said he
knew my brother caught me by surprised. I found out later he is from Penang and had sat beside
my brother during one of the dinner he attended and has talked about hiking and he, Peter told
him he is going to Ulu Sepat and my brother, Eng Hong told him we are also going to the same
place and at the same date. What a coincidence.
We boarded 2 boats for an hour boat ride to an orang asli camp, then another hour ride on a 4
wheel drive. The vehicle deposited us at the end of the trail and henceforth it is leg power all the
way to the camp site. The distance is about 8km and the camp site is called Kem Agas (as the
name suggest, the area is infested with agas agas , in English -sand flies). The guild told us the
camp site is able to accommodate about 50 campers and we had expectation of a rather
comfortable and spacious site. How surprised we are when we reach it.
The track was once a logging track but over time the jungle has claimed back the track and due
to hiker and the orang asli using it regularly, it remains a small trail. By 11.30am we started our
hike and the trail was rather easy with gentle upslope but rather slippery due to wet season. All
of us make good speed and I found out the other members do not take break at all. We have
found out from conversation with some of them, their aim is the conquest of the G7 (is so called
as there is 7 mountains in peninsula that is above 7000 feets) Most of them has make many
conquest and there is 4 of them that is here for the final G7 as
Gunung Ulu Sepat is the last of the G7. They are all super fit and they sure look slim and
muscular including the 2 ladies with them. Our aim for any climb is for the pleasure of a good
hike, camping and the time to be with nature. Should there be any conquest of peaks is
incidental and not something to brag about. After an hour into the hike, my brother and me
decided to take our own break as he was not feeling very well for he has not fully recovered
from his flu. First time in my hiking life I am stronger than him in default.
As usual, Kishen is nowhere in sight as he is with the front group and as we slough onward, I
found myself walking with a KL fella by the name Collin. He asked me what is there for us in
hiking and camping when we can have the comfort of home with Astro and beer served by his
wife. He has climbed so many mountains and yet he is asking because he has not yet found the
answer. He said whenever he is finished with one mountain and back home, he will start having
the urge to go again. I told him I have the same calling and urge and to me hiking, camping and
to be with nature is my way of feeding my soul. Some people may go shopping, go overseas for
holiday or do whatever they want to satisfy the soul. To me, this is what I love doing and it is
satisfying. He agreed with me and from that moment onward, we became soul brother.
We came to a river side and found the whole group had stopped for lunch and Francis, (we
become whisky brother later) from Kuantan with his GPS came in later and say we have walked
4.8km and ascend 800 meter above sea level. He reckoned that we have another 5.2km and
ascend of 200 meter (camp site is at 1000 meter) only and it should be a gentle slope only. The
trouble with the mountain and jungle is they don’t go in straight line but up and down and we
could be going up 300 meter and down another 300 meter again and we are back to square one.
Immediately after lunch, we had the first river crossing and everyone just plunge in and walk
through the river except Collin. He picks his way gingerly by stepping and jumping over the rock
and boulders and was happy to keep his shoe and sock dry. Unknown to him, the second river
crossing is just a few minutes away and this time there is no boulders over the river for him to
skip and he reluctantly wet his shoes. Tough luck to my soul brother. Immediately after the 2nd
river crossing, as expected the mountain ascent steeply and we know it’s not going to be a stroll
in the park. On and on we go, up and down and suddenly without expecting to reach the
campsite, I found people putting up tent and they are from our group.
It’s only 4pm and found my son; kishen, Frank & Wun already have our two tents set up. When
Francis came in with his GPS, he said the GPS reading from the starting point to campsite should
be 10km but is actually only 7km plus. Technology too got their weakness as they did not know
the Malaysia bolih short cut. The campsite that is supposedly able to accommodate 50 people as
promised is simply a small space by the river and to put in 50 people, I think 20 peoples must
stay on top the trees or has to clear the jungle. There was chaos as so called engineer try to set
up tents and overhead sheet all over the place in such a confined area. Suggestion and ideas can
be heard above the entire din and amidst the chaos; the campsite finally appeared quite orderly
and practical. Mosquito’s coils were lighted up around the campsite and yet those flies still
appear. With the tent set up, most of the campers went for the river to bath and wash the dirt
and grimes and to rinse our sweaty clothing. Yours truly went in and has to scream and shout
out the coldness of the water. It took a while to get used to the very cold water and while
toweling, I started shivering from the chill.
Dinner was supposed to be army ration, but since we were early, we decided to cook what was
planned for tomorrow dinner today. We are going to have “soup Mee Hoon Kueh”. Kishen
kneaded the flour and soon we have the water boiling and the sky opened up and started
raining. It rained quite heavily and all those so called engineer that built the overhead sheet
came out in the rain to inspect their work to repair or remedied their work as the water started
seeping from all over the place. We had a surprised as the tents that we borrowed from Gan,
turned out to be the tent that eng pow gave away to him as it was leaking and he loaned us the
tent that Eng Pow gave it to him. Kishen & Frank using that tent has to content with the leak if it
rains all night long. However the rain was a blessing because it drove away the flies. We have to
trade one irritating & painful nuisance for another discomforting wetness. Fortunately after
about 30 minutes the rain stopped but by then the ground become rather wet and soggy.
Dinner was ready and we quickly tucked it in while it was hot and it warmed us up from within
making us very comfortable and satisfied. Wun, my golf buddy who is camping for the first time
with me (he is no green horn himself as he has Gunung Tahan conquest to his name) quickly
washed up the utensils and we can relaxed for the rest of the night.
Coffee was made to while away and we watch the next door camper cooking their dinner. They
seem to be making a feast in the jungle which once upon a time when we were younger we will
do that but today we have become lazier and we just have the basic food. When our neighbors
have finished their dinner, whisky was brought out. I had 2 canister of 5oz stuff and I started on
my canister and pass it round. In a short while it was emptied and Francis brought 2 small
bottles and that too vanished into thin air. Collin took out another 8oz plastic bottle of whisky
and that was consumed up in no time. Francis then show us his 2/3 bottle of gold label but it
was only for tomorrow night to celebrate reaching the peak. Woh, which is good stuff and we
better, be his whisky brother so as to be included in his celebration. That is how we become
whisky brother. I kept my 2nd canister for the next night. With the ration for the night gone,
what else to do? We can’t be holding hand and sucking thumb, so the best thing to do is to sleep.
Sleep came easily when you have some alcohol in your system and the night become rather cold.
All woke up at 6am and swiftly had a pot of water boiling to warm up our breakfast ration and
tea was made. By 8am we were all ready for the assault to the peak and be back to the campsite
but the others was not ready and we only took of at around 8.30am. The distance is about 4km
but was informed its all upslope. We had to cross the very stream that was beside our campsite
and we had to start the hike with soaked boots. The hike was like climbing Batu cave’s step
multiplies by a few hundred times. All the fast climbers soon disappear from my view. Eng Pow
has recovered and is no where to be seen. Kishen, Frank and Wun too have gone up way ahead.
I found myself alone most of the time but had the consolation of knowing that there is about 5
slower climbers behind me. Telling myself that I am not that weak and determined not to be
overtake by them. I then came to a part where it’s like a swampy path and our feet will sink up
to our ankle in blackish muddy liquid and here I become part tarzan holding on to small trees
and scrubs to swing from side to side to avoid stepping on the mud and me wearing glove helps
a lot in gripping those rough wood. No amount or tarzaning can prevent stepping into the mud
as there is many areas where you simply could not find solid foot hold and I ended up with my
boots caked in blackish mud and it smell funny. By now I am around 1800 meter asl and the
wind is blowing hard and cold and I had to put on my rain coat but the feet being wet is feeling
numb from cold. My hand too started to feel numb and I recalled when I was in Gunung
Kinabalu, I had a hiking mate whose hand remained warm when mine was freezing cold. I would
hold the hand and enjoyed the warmness and I really missed that hand. I wish she was here for
the climb so that I can have that mobile heater with me. Wei Mee, I missed you. ]
It was past 1pm when I reached the peak and the rest of the front climbers were all there. They
have almost finished their lunch and some was making hot drinks. Peter Chan was kind to share
with me his hot tea and that hot drinks is the best drinks in such a cold place. I quickly take my
lunch and group picture was taken and most of them wanted to go down due to the cold
freezing wind and could not wait any longer for the stragglers.
I have taken more than 4 hours to reach the peak and going down is not going to be easy too, as
the muddy stretch still need to be crossed and due to the rains, the treks and roots are all
slippery. We have to use utmost caution in descending as any slip or trips will end up rolling
down the slope causing serious injury with broken arms and legs if not, broken head. Step by
step we gingerly picked our way down and the journey backed to the campsite took me almost 4
hours too. Upon reaching the river beside the camp, I soaked in it for a long while to wash away
all the dirt and to clean up my shoes before the mud dried and caked up. It was awesome climb
with plenty of technical areas but thanks god all came back safely. The last stragglers came back
before 7pm.
We see other campers preparing their dinner and we just simply lepak as we are not doing any
cooking. It is so convenient having army ration and it saved us time and they consist of sufficient
calories for our needs. Mind you, those foods are rather tasty and nice to our palate. Our fellow
campers were amazed that our rations have condensed milk in toothpaste type of packing. We
soon had our dinner and being a rice eater, we watch with salivated mouth when we saw Venu
frying pork to be eaten with rice. It’s been a while we had not have any rice. When he offered us
his extra rice with his japan imported pork, we quickly say thank you and gulped it down before
he can finished saying haleluya. We admired Venu camping gear and equipments as it has the
latest technology, even his cooking and eating set is all titanium makes.
Now it is time for the celebration gold label and we sat in a circle. I started the celebration with
my 2nd canister and pass it around. Kishen, who don’t like alcoholic drink, sat in the circle too
and partake in the session with Frank. Eng Pow and Wun remained in the tent having their own
conversation. Gold label was finally bought out and we savor the liquid as it is make of gold. It’s
a wonderful drinks and halfway through the stuff, Venu wants to take a mouthful to exchange
with the guilds for a special cigarettes. He came back with the special stuff that is ''Rokok Daun'' as it helps with the cold!. He smoked and passed it around like you see those addicts do it behind your back lane. I only took 2 small puffs as I do not want to be caught with a sore throat and feel bad for the rest of the day ahead. All too soon we polished off the bottle and as the night was still young, we now have to be contented
with coffee. With whisky and "Special Cigarettes", all of us become very relax and carefree. We talked and
joked like we have known each other our whole life. It was a very enjoyable night and we finally
break up as it was already past midnight and we need the rest as we have a good 6 to 7 hours of
hiking to do the next day.
It was easy going all the way back and we reach the logging trails by noon, and had lunch on the
logging track. We gave our tough and durable plastic army spoon to Collin as he was using the
normal take away plastic spoon which breaks easily. We still have about 20 minutes walk to the
4 wheel drive pick up point and when we reach there, it started to drizzle.
Upon reaching the Gerik, Police Station, farewell to one another was made; telephone numbers
was exchanged and promises was make to call whenever we are in each other town.
We decided to stay another night in Gerik as it’s a long drive and we are all too tired to make an
overnight drive. Dinner was steamed fish; curry wild boar meat, fried deer meat and 2 vege. We
all ate double helping of rice and it seems we cannot eat enough. We must have been famished
after 3 days of army foods that make us all seems like hungry ghost. After dinner we had some
Guinness stout as a way to mark the end of the trip.
In conclusion, I wish to thanks my soul brother, Collin, the whisky brothers, Francis & Venu and
the Penang chap, Peter Chan for the wonderful and interesting company. I am happy, Kishen has
become a mature and experience hiker despite his young age and introducing this activity to his
friend, Frank, who declared he enjoyed it so much and would like to be included in future trip.
Eng Pow, Wun and myself, whom all are already in our 50’s still enjoyed this strenuous activity
and with blessing from the almighty, may we remained in good health and by keeping ourselves
fit and strong, we would still have decade to enjoy such trips to be with nature.
May we again and again “Take it to the Limit” and “See You At The Top”
Chee Eng Hooi
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